Whether the job is big or small you need to estimate the amount of materials needed. For estimating drywall finishing you will need know much board you will need for installing the drywall, and you have to be good at estimating drywall screws and mud and tape. You’ll also have to be able to calculate such as adding up number of linear feet.

For smaller jobs like rooms you’ll have to figure out how you’re going to place the drywall panels and the sizes you’re going to buy. ( Quick note ) estimate the amount of drywall you will be using not accounting for doors and windows just a straight room with none of these openings. Wallboard panels ( drywall ) come in eight and 12 foot lengths by 4 feet wide. The 12 foot length is more expensive but it covers more area so you’ll have to do less taping. Of course the 12 foot length is a little harder to handle than a 8 foot one.

If your designing your drywall layout on your ceiling for example, let’s say you have a 16′ x 10′ ceiling. This will allow you to have two pieces — 4′ x 12′ panels, two pieces 4′ x 4′ panels, and two pieces of 2′ x 8′ panels. This will give you the least amount of joints hence less screws, less drywall tape, less drywall compound, hence less time spent. So it is important that you lay out the drywall sheet arrangement on a piece of paper to figure out how to place your drywall cost-effectively.

Estimating drywall screws

Screws are typically placed at 16 inches center to center This would be the way your ceiling joists are put in. Therefore a 4′ x 8′ panel will use up 28 screws

Determining how much drywall tape to use

Drywall tape usually comes in 100 foot rolls, since you know how many boards you will be putting up and their sizes you can tackle it by adding up all the sum of the edges, this will give you the amount of tape you need. About 400 linear feet of drywall tape is usually used up on 1000 ft. of drywall

Calculating your corner beads

Corner beads are used outside corners and they are made of metal. Use full lengths for corners, don’t make the corners out of pieces of corner bead this won’t work very well.

Calculating how much joint compound to use

Joint compound is sold in various ways, plastic pales, cardboard boxes with bags inside them filled full of compound. Buying the box is the cheapest way just a little less convenient. To tape 1000 ft. would take approximately about 150 pounds of compound to get it finished wall using standard all-purpose premix if you want to use lightweight all-purpose ill be less than half of that for 1000 ft.

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If you’d like to give your kitchen a modern upgrade, then installing a tile backsplash is just what you want to do. The key in this is to make sure you choose the right tiles to compliment your kitchen surroundings correctly. While the job may be a bit messier at the starting point, it will become easier as you move into the project. You don’t need an already existing painted or tile backsplash either.

Planning

If you have an existing drywall painted backsplash, you can install the tiles right over it. First, sand the area. Then, get prepared to do some installation. On the other hand, if you have an already available tile backsplash, you’re best off removing it completely. You will need to cut the existing backer (probably drywall) and get rid of it and any tiles that may come along with that. Your new backerboard may now be installed into the studs created. Many people recommend putting new cement behind this backerboard. If you’d like to, the best choice of material to use is green (probably waterproof) because of its lightweight characteristics.

Make sure you calculate the length of the backsplash and any other measurements you will need in order to determine the area of the space you need to fill with a special tile pattern. Next, figure out what you want your tile pattern to look like by using a piece of graph paper.

Installing the Backsplash

* 1. Unplug any appliances such as a stove that may get in the way of your work.

* 2. Using galvanized drywall screws,

. Make sure to leave a 1/8th of an inch gap between each tile. Then fill with compound.

* 3. In order to line your tiles up vertically, be sure to mark the visual focal point of the layout. Preview the pattern by laying it out on the counter or floor.

* 4. Start at the center and create the bottom row by applying tile mastic (a tile adhesive). Place the edge of the very first tile on the line. Press and wiggle the first piece into place and then stick a temporary 1/8th of an inch spacer in between that one and the next.

* 5. Repeat until you’ve fulfilled your desired pattern.

Cutting a Tile

Utilizing a scoring cutter is the easiest way to cut a tile. You can rent these devices for around $20/day or just purchase one of your own for around $50. There are two processes to follow when using them: First, place a mark on the tile where you’d like to cut it. Then, use a sharp motion of the cutter and it should slice the tile right where you sketched the mark.

If you need to cut an opening for an electrical outlet, you may have more steps to take into consideration. You may need to cut two tiles using the tile scoring cutter and then use a tile nipper to cut out the opening.

Grouting

Now it’s time to get the dirty work done. Use sandless grout and combine it according to the directions. Using a rubber float, apply the grout. Push it well down in between the tiles.
Finishing Touches

Let the grout solidify for an hour or so and then clean off any excess that may have found its way onto tiles.

Place a light bead of tub and tile caulk along the bottom seam where the tile meets your countertop

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Hanging Sheetrock for the Ceiling and Walls

Hanging Sheetrock on the ceiling for your remodeling project does not have to be hard. It can be easy and fun. It just depends on you. Using the right materials for the project is what it’s all about. Like the right length, thickness and kind of board.

Over the years, I have found that while doing Home Remodeling Projects, it is best to have 2-3 people to hang the ceiling; it’s much easier than using a Drywall Jack. Drywall Board of 1/2" x 4×8 standard sheetrock is best for ceilings, depending on the area of the ceiling. If there is a large area then use size 4×10 or 4×12.

Have 2 people to put the piece of sheet rock in place and to hold it tight, while the other person screws it in place with 1-3/8 Drywall screws. Screw at least 3 screws in the middle of the piece of sheetrock about 12 inches apart in order to hold it in place before screwing the borders. This will prevent the sheetrock from spinning or moving while screwing everything in place. Next, screw around the whole boarder. Then, finish screwing the sheetrock on the ceiling. Always remember to stagger your joints like laying brick.

To hang the walls, do not stand the sheet rock upright; lay it flat across the walls. Start with the first piece up against the ceiling, and then place the next piece on the bottom of it. After screwing the perimeter, put 2, 1-3/8 screws in the middle of the sheetrock about 12 inches apart, it adds support. Remember again to stagger your joints.

• This is your first step to your Home Remodeling Project
• Look for Our Next Edition on Installing the Corner Bead

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After you have hung the walls and ceilings you will need to install the corner bead. Make sure you put the sheetrock inside all the windows and the outlets are all cut out. Rasping the edges and corners off all the hung sheetrock will make installing easier.

Corner Bead

There are two types that come in various lengths:

1 – Bull Nose
2 – Standard Square

There are two types of material for the two types:

1 – plastic
2 – metal

There is no difference in how to install the plastic or metal.

Measure the corners and cut the piece to fit, using Tin Snips. If you have a corner that is longer than the piece you have and need to use more than one piece per corner, do not overlap them, "butt it up". Put them as close together as possible and follow the instructions below.

Bull Nose: There are two ways to install this type.

1 – gluing: these are spray adhesives. The best one recommended is Corner Bead Spray Adhesive. Use according to manufacturer Instructions. Spray the adhesive on the entire inside of your cut piece. Put it on the corner and apply pressure in the middle, working upward with one hand and downward with the other. Making sure there are no bumps or bubbles on the edges. Allowing to dry over night gives that added assurance that when you are mudding you know your not going to get it under the sides and won’t have a fix-it project to do later because it lifted.

2 – nailing: the best to use is regular sheetrock nails at an inch and 1/8 to inch and 1/4 . Put your cut piece on the corner and put one nail in the center of the corner bead on each side. Working upward first then downward put a nail in at about 2 inches apart. Make sure the edges do not lift. If its does, put a nail in where it is lifted. You can start mudding immediately afterward.

Standard Square: There are three ways to install this type.

1 – gluing: same as above

2 – nailing: same as above

3 – crimping: Please note: you cannot crimp the plastic. Put your cut piece on the corner and put the crimper in the center first. Apply pressure to the crimper and hit it with the rubber mallet. This style pinches the corner bead to the corner by pinching both sides simultaneously. Work upward first then downward. Once it’s all crimped, check for any lifting. If there is lifting crimp down the part(s) that are lifted. You can start mudding immediately afterward.

Supplies:

• Plastic or Metal Corner bead
• Rasper
• Crimper and Rubber Mattet
• 1-1/4" sheetrock nails
• Spray Adhesive
• Tool Belt
• Measuring Tape
• Tin Snips
• Rags
• Beer and Good Friends

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 Q: How do I get Bubbles and Wrinkles out of My Corner Bead?

It seems we have had a few concerns from people installing the corner bead on their projects. This is a normal complaint from most anyone who is a first timer at installing corner bead or just gets frustrated from it happening so often. Don’t worry; you can install it like a pro.

First and foremost, NEVER use Screws!
Screws cause more bubbles and wrinkles in the corner bead and WILL inevitably leave you unsatisfied with the finished project. The reason for this is that whether you use metal or plastic, screws can twist in too tight and rip through it.

If you use a screw gun the screws will almost always go in too tight. If you want your project to take you weeks to finish, then you can use the old hand and screwdriver method therefore, you can be really careful not to screw the screws in too tight. One of my favorite sayings: save yourself a dime, do it right the first time.

Nails are the best thing when using corner bead.
Everyone has their own likes and dislikes. We at Sheetrockers Secrets prefer to use only metal corner bead with nails. The best nails to use are 1 x 1/8 inch sheetrock nails. We have found over the years that metal corner bead with nails is the easiest to use and makes a cleaner finish.

If I am training someone and there is a need to take the corner bead off and do it again, the piece that is damaged cannot be reused but, it should be cut away and a good piece put in its place. I have found that metal bead is easiest to do this with. There is less damage to the sheetrock than if using glue and, it seems that more of the bead is damaged if using plastic. More oft than not, things do not need to be redone, but I dont like to be put in a position that makes unnecessary work. Who does?

After measuring your sections apply to the corner making sure the edges are flush against the ceiling. Starting in the middle of the bead on either side, is where you want to stick your first nail. As it is the middle of your project, you may want to put a nail on the left side and the right side but it is not necessary.

You can either work upward to the ceiling or downward putting in the nails in an alternate fashion staggering the nails from one side to the other until you reach the top. If you get bubbles or wrinkles and cannot smooth them out while nailing, then you can just stick a nail in the stubborn bubble and it should be fine. Always start in the middle of the corner bead and work one way or the other. This allows the bubbles and wrinkles to be pushed outward as you nail.

If you are using a crimper, make sure you are using the right one. If you are using bullnose corner bead then use a bullnose crimper. If you are using regular corner bead then use a regular crimper. See the differences in the pictures. On the right is a bullnose crimper and on the left is a regular crimper with mallet.

Also note, that if you use plastic corner bead you cannot use a crimper. This would be apparently obvious to some but to others it is not. Therefore, without any disrespect; you can only crimp metal. You cannot crimp plastic.

When applying the second piece to the same corner, make sure they do not overlap. Make sure they butt up to each other nice and tight. This will cause less work for you in your upcoming steps of taping, mudding and sanding. And, you will much appreciate your diligence in paying attention to the little things that matter big.

Last and most importantly of all
Make sure you have a double meat hoagie, chips and a beer because you will be proud of a job well done.

Material
Corner bead
Glue
Crimper
Mallet
Double Meat Hoagie
Chips
Beer

Installing Corner Bead

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Contractor grade aerosol adhesive that quickly bonds paper and plastic corner bead to drywall. (Not recommended for use with metal corner bead). Bonds lightweight materials includ…   Read more…

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Things You’ll Need:

# Hammer
# Silicone or Caulk
# Reciprocating saw
# Screw Gun
# Pry bar
# Screwdriver

First of all you must measure the windows correctly. If in brick, measure to the inside of the brick. If in wood or vinyl siding measure to the inside of the interior of window. Purchase windows or order if necessary.

To remove existing window. Cut caulk around window with razor knife. If flange nailed to house. Remove glass and Pry window from wall. Cut in the middle of window frame with a reciprocating saw. Then pry window out the rest of the way. If no flange remove screws hidden behind plastic strip and remove window. Clean opening with shop vacuum.

Plumb and level window inside of opening. Screw each corner until you achieve plumb and level. Use shims if necessary. Window should fit pretty snug. Check to see if window operates properly. Silicone outside around brick or siding anything that isn’t paintable. If paintable use painters caulk or paintable silicone.

Inside caulk window around drywall. Silicone window to sill if sill is not paintable, or painted. If excessive gap, add trim or drywall. If adding drywall on the inside. you must then use corner bead. nail or screw corner bead on. Apply a coat of drywall mud or use a time sensitive durabond to fill corner bead. Durabond works faster for more applications. Then let dry and sand wall, until ready to paint. Paint as necessary.

Tips & Warnings

Always wear safety glasses and gloves, when working around glass.

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Hanging drywall correctly depends as much on using the right tools as it does on following the correct process. To hang dry wall correctly, the panels should first be placed on the ceiling. This allows them to be supported by the drywall panels that form the walls. When hanging the ceiling panels, it is best to use a dry wall jack. The easy to use, hand operated jack holds the panel firmly in place on a level plane, preventing it from cracking due to unequal pressure and ensuring that the panel rests directly against the ceiling joists.

When the drywall is measured and ready to be affixed to the ceiling and wall joists, either ring shank nails or screws can be used to hold it in place. 1-1/4" screws or rink shank nails should be used for 1/2" drywall. Considering the sizable number of screws or nails used in most drywall projects, 12" apart on ceiling joists and 16" apart on wall joists, a screw gun is one of the most time saving drywall hand tools available. The screws or nails should be driven slightly beneath the surface of the drywall.

Most screw guns automatically place the screw at its ideal depth. When using nails, a special drywall hammer with a rounded head is used to place the nails at their proper depth. A stud remover and installer kit is another drywall tool that can save time, especially when a misplaced screw needs to be removed without damaging the drywall.

Throughout the drywall hanging process, a level should be applied to each hung drywall panel to insure that it is not sloping. Even the smallest deviation from a level plane can cause a room seem bigger at one end, or make a drywall-lined column look as if it is "twisting" from top to bottom.

Once the drywall is secured to the studs, a metal corner bead is nailed to the outside corners to prevent them from chipping. The seams between the drywall panels are then "taped" over using joint tape to allow for a smooth coat of paint. Finally, joint compound is applied with a metal or plastic scraper to the corner beads, screw or nail depressions and other minor blemishes.

Once the joint compound is dry, it is smoothed with sandpaper to remove any raised portions. An electric sander is ideal in this situation. It requires less effort than hand sanding and its flat surface insures that the wall is sanded perfectly flat. After sanding, the drywall is ready for paint.

Hanging drywall is not a difficult process, especially when the wall joists and insulation are already in place. However, it is one of the most detail-oriented processes that a homeowner can undertake. If the measurements are not precise or the drywall is not level, there is nothing left to do but tear it out and start over again. Once the necessary drywall tools have been acquired and the process steps have been laid out, the key to success becomes using a tape measure and a level with great vigilance.

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Also called wallboard, gyproc, or plasterboard, it is used to cover interior walls and ceilings, and sometimes as an underlay for ceramic tiles. Composed of gypsum (calcium sulfate dihydrate) sandwiched between two layers of kraft paper, it has a fire rating of approx. 30 minutes, and offers reasonable soundproofing, especially when installed in two layers.

Hanging drywall can be fairly heavy work, but not overly difficult to master. It ranges from 1/4" to 5/8" in thickness, with 1/2" being the most common in residential work. The sheets are normally 4 feet wide and 8, 10 or 12 feet long, conforming to standard measuring increments, such as framing studs placed at 16 or 24 inch intervals.

Standard drywall sheets have tapered long edges and the shorts ends are squared off. One face is rough, and one face is smooth, for painting and papering. Water resistant drywall also has tapered edges, and is used for kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms. Use cement-based backer board under tub surrounds or ceramics, in tub and shower areas. Some drywall comes pre-finished in different textures, colors and patterns, and some are vinyl-coated.

Wallboard (drywall) sheathing has tongue and groove edges, and is used under exterior claddings, including masonry to provide water and wind protection.

Wallboard sheathing and water-resistant drywall will both sag if used on ceilings – use standard drywall on ceilings, and cover with alkyd primer to water-proof the surface.

Drywall must be carefully measured and cut, before fastening to wood or metal studs, preferably with special drywall screws applied with a drywall gun or a drill, fixed with a drywall "dimpler" to properly counter-sink the screws. Use Type W screws for fastening to wood studs, Type G for fastening one sheet to another, and Type S for fastening sheets to metal studs. The joints are finished with joint compound (mud) and tape (paper or fibre mesh). Outside corners are covered with a metal corner (drywall "bead"). A T-square and utility knife are used for cutting, and a drywall knife (a smooth, broad spreader) is used for applying the compound.

To estimate quantities, add up the square footage to be covered, and divide by the number of square feet in a sheet (eg. 32 for a 4X8 sheet). One pound of nails or 1/2 pound of screws will fasten 200 square feet of drywall. Have a friend help you with the heavy sheets, especially when hanging a ceiling!

Drywall is easiest to install and finish if you hang it sideways, although if your ceiling is higher than 8′1" you might be tempted to hang the sheets vertically.

CAUTION

If hanging sheets vertically, you will be screwing very close to the tapered edge, and if the framing is not perfect, your vertical joints might be weak, or not line up at all!

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Hanging drywall correctly depends as much on using the right tools as it does on following the correct process. To hang dry wall correctly, the panels should first be placed on the ceiling. This allows them to be supported by the drywall panels that form the walls. When hanging the ceiling panels, it is best to use a dry wall jack. The easy to use, hand operated jack holds the panel firmly in place on a level plane, preventing it from cracking due to unequal pressure and ensuring that the panel rests directly against the ceiling joists.

When the drywall is measured and ready to be affixed to the ceiling and wall joists, either ring shank nails or screws can be used to hold it in place. 1-1/4" screws or rink shank nails should be used for 1/2" drywall. Considering the sizable number of screws or nails used in most drywall projects, 12" apart on ceiling joists and 16" apart on wall joists, a screw gun is one of the most time saving drywall hand tools available. The screws or nails should be driven slightly beneath the surface of the drywall.

Most screw guns automatically place the screw at its ideal depth. When using nails, a special drywall hammer with a rounded head is used to place the nails at their proper depth. A stud remover and installer kit is another drywall tool that can save time, especially when a misplaced screw needs to be removed without damaging the drywall.

Throughout the drywall hanging process, a level should be applied to each hung drywall panel to insure that it is not sloping. Even the smallest deviation from a level plane can cause a room seem bigger at one end, or make a drywall-lined column look as if it is "twisting" from top to bottom.

Once the drywall is secured to the studs, a metal corner bead is nailed to the outside corners to prevent them from chipping. The seams between the drywall panels are then "taped" over using joint tape to allow for a smooth coat of paint. Finally, joint compound is applied with a metal or plastic scraper to the corner beads, screw or nail depressions and other minor blemishes.

Once the joint compound is dry, it is smoothed with sandpaper to remove any raised portions. An electric sander is ideal in this situation. It requires less effort than hand sanding and its flat surface insures that the wall is sanded perfectly flat. After sanding, the drywall is ready for paint.

Hanging drywall is not a difficult process, especially when the wall joists and insulation are already in place. However, it is one of the most detail-oriented processes that a homeowner can undertake. If the measurements are not precise or the drywall is not level, there is nothing left to do but tear it out and start over again. Once the necessary drywall tools have been acquired and the process steps have been laid out, the key to success becomes using a tape measure and a level with great vigilance.

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Whether the job is big or small you need to estimate the amount of materials needed. For estimating drywall finishing you will need know much board you will need for installing the drywall, and you have to be good at estimating drywall screws and mud and tape. You’ll also have to be able to calculate such as adding up number of linear feet.

For smaller jobs like rooms you’ll have to figure out how you’re going to place the drywall panels and the sizes you’re going to buy. ( Quick note ) estimate the amount of drywall you will be using not accounting for doors and windows just a straight room with none of these openings. Wallboard panels ( drywall ) come in eight and 12 foot lengths by 4 feet wide. The 12 foot length is more expensive but it covers more area so you’ll have to do less taping. Of course the 12 foot length is a little harder to handle than a 8 foot one.

If your designing your drywall layout on your ceiling for example, let’s say you have a 16′ x 10′ ceiling. This will allow you to have two pieces — 4′ x 12′ panels, two pieces 4′ x 4′ panels, and two pieces of 2′ x 8′ panels. This will give you the least amount of joints hence less screws, less drywall tape, less drywall compound, hence less time spent. So it is important that you lay out the drywall sheet arrangement on a piece of paper to figure out how to place your drywall cost-effectively.

Estimating drywall screws

Screws are typically placed at 16 inches center to center This would be the way your ceiling joists are put in. Therefore a 4′ x 8′ panel will use up 28 screws

Determining how much drywall tape to use

Drywall tape usually comes in 100 foot rolls, since you know how many boards you will be putting up and their sizes you can tackle it by adding up all the sum of the edges, this will give you the amount of tape you need. About 400 linear feet of drywall tape is usually used up on 1000 ft. of drywall

Calculating your corner beads

Corner beads are used outside corners and they are made of metal. Use full lengths for corners, don’t make the corners out of pieces of corner bead this won’t work very well.

Calculating how much joint compound to use

Joint compound is sold in various ways, plastic pales, cardboard boxes with bags inside them filled full of compound. Buying the box is the cheapest way just a little less convenient. To tape 1000 ft. would take approximately about 150 pounds of compound to get it finished wall using standard all-purpose premix if you want to use lightweight all-purpose ill be less than half of that for 1000 ft.

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